You know.
Stock XTR pedals have a "
Teflon coated open binding system with slim oval axle body housing
sheds mud efficiently and reduces stiction." That said, once they've aged on a bit, that Teflon ain't shit. I'm talking about years and years of abuse...
Like every single set of XTR pedals I currently own have seen at the moment.
So, the best thing that I've found to do is try and pay attention. If my pedals are subjected to a pretty wet, long ride or a night out in the rain (I did a terrible job of sheltering half my bike under the porch at the Pisgah Enduro™), I really need to tend to them when I get home.
I recently didn't.
So obviously, I didn't take care of them after the Enduro storms, and my pedals were extra "stictiony" this past weekend. Even tho I'd already had one incident and fell over on my right knee trying to climb outta Buckhorn Gap, I wanted to try the lower technical climb outta Hot Dog Gap going back down Black Mountain. I got right to the point where things were gonna go to 100% shit, so I tried to clip out, fell over sideways and backwards totally still attached to the bike, landing my left hip on a pointy-ass stump.
Shit.
So what I was supposed to do...
Depending on how bad they are, I might break out some steel wool or a sanding block and lightly scrub them down. That's only if they're really bad. Normally, if I'm "paying attention," I grab some wax-based lube (because I think this is just about all it's good for), and schmear them all up real good like.
So this is my reminder to you to do as I say, not as I do (and did). I don't know anyone who doesn't have a small sample of waxed based lube tossed in a drawer or collecting dust on their work bench. I've never had much luck with lubing my chain with it, but saddle rails that are squeaking, corroded clip-in pedals (and cleats for that matter), creaky brake levers... mebbe that's it. Dunno.
These are great places for wax lube IMHOMO.
So don't pitch that little bottle. Put it to work. Those melted down crayons and candles didn't die for nothing.
BTW: I felt like I already blerhged about waxing pedals, but for the life of me, I can't find the post. So sorry if I did or welcome if I didn't.
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9 comments:
You might also want to try some spray silicone like Scotchgard or Campdry. Crud doesn't stick to it and it works well for keeping cassettes clean too. I am not referring to silicone lube with some sort of oil in it. Use the stuff for making fabric water repellent. Just keep it off your rotors!
I recently experienced this very phenomenon. My 10yr old SPD 540s completely shit whipped me in the parking lot after finishing a ride. Luckily no one was there to see the monumental crash when BOTH pedals failed & I ended up on my back........still clipped in! Welcome the new XT Trail SPDs to my life! I feel like I’m going to replace them after every 5yrs or so.
SimplicityMike,
I'm still on some OG XTR pedals on my tarck bike that I use for commuting and work. They're out in the weather nine hours a day, and they get clicked in/out more than most pedals see in normal MTB use.
Yet somehow, they are clinging on to life. This is on a bike where clipping out accidentally is possible death/injury.
Tim Garland,
Good to know. My Def Leppard cassettes have been getting quite cruddy.
I've smooshed candle wax into my cleats and mechanism in the past and found this to work very, very well.
I acquired my first clipless pedals in '94 and learned to use them (basically eating shit for an entire ride) in Colorado Springs. The next year, I bought my first pair of Time ATAC's. Most have a love/hate relationship with these, however I am decidedly in the former camp. The downsides are lack of adjustability (save changing the basic release angle), the cleats wear quickly and those with really big feet tend to find them lacking lateral support. None of those have been issues for me and I have ridden them ever since in assorted styles. I say if you want the most predictable pedal engagement and want to do ZERO maintenance, then Times are shiz. Regarding their "lack" of adjustability you can purchase versions that have a tension adjust. However, I've found the most basic ones have the best feel and are the most durable. I have the MX8's, Z-controls, and some Aliums doing time on my bikes, with the later two being the most bombproof pedals I have used.
I bet you wouldn’t have that problem with Egg Beaters. Just sayin.
I would also have a great relationship with Crank Brothers customer service!
Honestly, I tried the original Eggbeaters. I couldn't stand that if you smashed a log or rock with the bottom of the pedal, it would open up and release the cleat. It happened enough that I just sold them and went back to SPDs.
I second the times. zero maintenance. i just replace them when they eventually break 8-9 years down the road.
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