Clik clik, boom

Sticking a pin in this, so I know when this experiment started.

I've been Clik valve curious since it came out back in 2024.  I've tried multiple "no-clog" Presta valve stems since I started running tubeless almost a quarter of a century ago, but they almost always disappoint... and it's mostly the valve core to blame. 

Yeth, the impossible to fully clean but only $.50 each on Amazon so just consider them disposable leftover technology from a Presta tube that was never meant to have a clogging liquid specifically meant to seal holes splashed and squirted near or past it.

Before I start getting hints regarding proper Presta valve care, here's what I do currently:

When mounting a new tire or swapping out, I pour the sealant into the tire before setting the bead.

When refreshing my sealant, I use the Park Tool TSI-1 sealant injector which passes all the way through (most) Presta valve stems sans core.

Any time anything is going in or out of the valve (sealant or air), the valve stem is clocked at/near three or nine.  

Any time the valve core is removed, I always give the stem a proper reaming with the Topeak Tubi Valve Cleaner.

That said, I still have valve cores inexplicably clog up way too early sometimes.  I'll discover it when the tire becomes hard to inflate... and sadly, this does not bode well with things like the Topeak E-Booster Digital Mini or any other mini compressor where you preset the desired pressure.  The compressor tries to work against the clog, reads the pressure as all good, and turns off prematurely.  I'm left setting the pressure way higher, and just guessing my way to close enough.  This also means less than optimal airflow when using a CO2 in a race emergency to reinflate after plugging a hole AND/OR a really fun time with a mini-pump.

I'm aware of other costly and probably better options like the Reserve Fillmore and MucOff, but with four bikes set up tubeless in the house (and at least three of them I care about), I'd rather go back to the disposable core option than spend $150 (make that $100 since they won't work on my deep garvel wheels).  Granted, the disposable core option doesn't solve the whole finding out you have a semi-clogged core in a race flat scenario. 

Another issue is the lack of a decent, low pressure gauge that's Clik compatible or being able to use one of the two or three gauges I already own.  I was hoping the Clik adapter would function with one of them.  It did not.  Clik has one digital option coming $oon, and Schwalbe makes (or made?) one that is somewhat available but has no bleed button.  Arrghh.

Rigid single speeder likes accurate low pressures.

Two ways to enter the Clik world; head first or a dipping of the toe, the former being the cheaper option if you end up fully converting.  Despite my tendency to cannonball my way into something new (ahem, 32" wheels), I went with the starter kit.  Two valves, one adapter.

Yeth, the newer Industry Nine valve stems are on the stubby side on my 32" wheels, which makes me wonder if valve stem length comes into play, being that the really, really long stems on my garvel bike have shown little to no signs of clogging yet at just over two months in.

Either I'll remember to post some kinda update in a few months, or you'll just see Clik valves on my two 32" single speeds and my garvel bike... or you'll see a giant bag of valve cores hanging on my pegboard.  

What I can say as of now:

I like the pump interface, especially when using the Topeak E-Booster Digital Mini.  I'll be depending on it for inflation and what not when I head to Girona in less than two months for Garvel-cation.

It plays okay with a normal pump head.

I've got no idea if/when it will clog up, or when I'd know that this is the way forward.

I'm guessing before I race this setup, I'm going to go ahead and waste a CO2 to confirm for myself that it's all the buenos.

So there's all that.